Village Church
- 13 STEPS
- 52 WOOD PIECES
- NO GLUE
- ABOUT 8.7 IN TALL
Before you start
- Lay your pieces out engraved side up. Each step shows the pieces it uses, drawn the way they lie on the table.
- No glue and no tools. The tabs are snug on purpose: press evenly and work each joint in a little at a time. Never force one corner.
- Engraved sides always face out. Left and right always mean as you look at the front of the house, the side with the door.
- The vellum is the thin paper that makes the windows glow. Each piece is the shape of its window or door frame, just a little smaller, so they are easy to match. If your vellum is still on its little card, press each piece out gently when its window goes on.
- Painting? Paint the pieces before you build. Keep the paint thin on the tabs and out of the slots, or the joints get too tight.
How a window goes on
Dress the walls flat on the table before they go up. Every layered window and door goes on in the same order, from the bottom up. Here is one window, piece by piece, with the new piece in gold.
1. SillPush the sill's two end tabs into the pair of slots under the window.
2. VellumLay the vellum on the wall, its bottom edge against the sill.
3. FrameSet the frame over it so its bottom tabs drop into the sill's notches.
4. Little capPush the little cap in over the frame's top tab, its two small tabs into the slots above.
Step 1: The lancet windows

Lay the two side walls and the back wall flat, engraved side up. Every lancet goes on the same way: sill, vellum, frame, then the little cap. Three on each side wall and one on the back wall. The little caps are all alike, and there are two spares.
Pieces for this stepWINDOW × 7 SILL × 7 LITTLE CAP × 9 Step 2: The doors and the sign

Lay the front wall flat, engraved side up, and work up from the bottom. Push the door step's two end tabs into their slots. Lay the doors' vellum with its bottom edge against the step, then set the doors over it, their two bottom tabs in the step's notches. The sign shelf goes over the doors' top tab, its end tabs into the wall. Stand the sign board in the shelf's two outer notches, then press the cornice on over the sign's two top tabs.
Pieces for this stepDOORS STEP SIGN SHELF SIGN CORNICE Step 3: The rose window

Then the rose: its little sill, the round vellum resting on it, the rose frame, and its little cap.
Pieces for this stepROSE WINDOW LITTLE SILL LITTLE CAP Step 4: Floor and back wall

Lay the floor flat. Stand the back wall, with its lancet on, on the floor's back edge so its bottom tabs drop into the notches. Engraved side faces out.
Pieces for this stepFLOOR BACK WALL Step 5: Platform

Slide the platform's back tabs into the row of slots across the back wall and hold it level, with its small square opening toward the front. The openings let the light reach the tower.
Pieces for this stepPLATFORM Step 6: Side walls

Slide each side wall in from its side. Three things catch at once: the corner tabs mesh with the back wall, the bottom tabs drop into the floor, and the row of slots near the top takes the platform's side tabs. Work it in a little at a time.
Pieces for this stepRIGHT SIDE WALL LEFT SIDE WALL Step 7: Build the tower and hang the bell

Build the tower on its own first. Push the top plate's tabs into the row of slots near the top of the tower back wall, then slide one tower side wall on. Set the bell in with its engraved face toward the open front, one base tab in that wall's small slot under the belfry opening. Then slide the other tower side wall on: it catches the top plate's tab, the bell's other tab and the back wall's corner pockets. The two tower side walls are mirror images: engraved sides out, the long edge with tabs facing forward.
Pieces for this stepTOWER SIDE, A MIRRORED PAIR TOWER BACK TOWER TOP BELL Step 8: Set the tower on the platform

Lower the whole tower onto the platform over the small square opening, tower back wall toward the back. Its bottom tabs drop into the platform's slots. The front of the tower stays open for now.
Step 9: Front wall goes on last

Slide the front wall, with everything you dressed on it, straight back into place. It catches everything at once: the side wall corners, the floor, the platform's front tabs, the tower walls' front tabs and the tower top. Press evenly across the whole wall.
IMPORTANTPut the front wall on last, every time. If it ever has to come off, slide it straight forward. Never pull or pry it off at an angle: it is the tallest piece and it can snap.Pieces for this stepFRONT WALL Step 10: Roof, left side first

Set the left roof panel on with its notched corner at the front, fitting around the tower. The tabs on the front and back walls go up into its slots.
Pieces for this stepLEFT ROOF PANEL Step 11: Roof, right side

Then the right panel the same way. Its top edge runs on past the ridge and laps over the top of the left panel, so the ridge closes tight with no gap for the light.
Pieces for this stepRIGHT ROOF PANEL Step 12: The spire

Slide the short spire piece (its slot from the top) down over the tall one (its slot from the bottom) to make an X, then set its feet into the X socket on the tower top. Your kit also has a four sided spire: interlock its two ribs the same way, stand them in the four small sockets, then lay the four faces on so their slots take the ribs' tabs. The tops swap anytime.
Pieces for this stepTALL SPIRE PIECE SHORT SPIRE PIECE RIB RIB SPIRE FACE × 4 Step 13: Light it up

Switch on the LED tealight, set it on the table, and set the church down over it so the light comes up through the round opening in the floor. Then drape the fairy lights over the roof and switch them on too. Use LED lights only, never a real candle.
Show off your village
Post a photo of it lit up and tag @glazerslaser on Instagram.
Missing a piece or something will not fit? Email support@glazerslaser.com with a photo and we will sort it out.



